Google Drive is finally here

Google has finally released the Google Drive service. If you’re familiar with Dropbox, Microsoft’s SkyDrive, Apple’s iCloud, etc, it’s the same thing. I’ve been using Dropbox for years and enjoy it a lot. The free service gives you 2GB and you can upgrade it with a paid subscription. There are already many advantages for me to switching to Google Drive:

  1. I already use many Google services and they are all integrated.
  2. I already have a Google account so I don’t have to sign up for another new account.
  3. Many of my friend’s already have a Google account so it makes sharing easier.
  4. You get 5GB for free. I know Microsoft and Apple start you off with 5GB+ but Gmail has always been friendly with all operating systems – which is another advantage.
  5. Cost. For $2.49/month you get 25GB of storage. You can quadruple that and only pay twice that per month at $5. I may save more money versus using Amazon’s S3 service.

As I mentioned above, I’m currently using Amazon’s S3 service to back up my photos in the cloud. I’m currently paying around $3-4 per month. It’s a nice service and it’s a pay for what you use service. Not only am I paying for the storage that I use, I also pay for the bandwidth and server requests as well. That, I didn’t like. So far, it looks like storage is all I pay for with Google Drive. I may make the switch after I do some testing.

Opening an Apple Mac Mini Mid 2007 MB138LL/A

I wanted to upgrade my old Mac Mini Mid 2007 MB138LL/A. Here’s what I did. Remember that I will not be responsible for any damage to your equipment.

With most Apple computers, opening them can be trivial. The trick to opening this one is using a putty knife. There are no screws holding the case to the computer/motherboard.

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There shouldn’t be any hidden wires connecting the case and the computer itself. Once you have the case off, here’s what you’ll see.

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You will notice that the DVDRW drive is at the top, while the hard drive is right underneath. At this point, you’ll probably not see the ram. It’s underneath the hard drive. You have to remove some screws to get access to these components. You should note that there is a wire that needs to be disconnected before removing the screws.

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In the front view of the above picture, please note A. This is the wire that needs to be disconnected.

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You will need to unclip the piece marked A to gain access to one of the screws.

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The picture above shows you where each of the 4 screws are. They are black with one of them being longer than the other 3. The labels A, B, C, and D shows where the screws are located. D is the longest of the 4 screws. E just shows you I have removed the component to get access to screw C.

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Keep in mind, there is a ribbon connecting the mid layer you are about to lift and the motherboard. This is to the back of the Mac Mini. The SATA ports are joined to the motherboard by a card. Slowly lift up keeping the 2 components I just mentioned. Figure A is the ram location. You can install 2x DDR2 667. Up to 2GB (2x 1GB) are supported but 3GB can be supported according to Wikipedia. These are not desktop size ram, they are laptop size – SODIMM. Figure B is the hard drive. It is a 2.5” size. According to Wikipedia, it’s a SATA2 port that supports up to 3Gbps but it has been throttled down to 1.5Gbps.

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Figure A is the ribbon I was referring to above. You can remove it but remove the end that’s attached behind the DVDRW drive. It is a little pain to connect it back but it will make moving things around easier. It’s up to you but check out how it’s connected first so you know how to put it back later.

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Above is a picture with a closer look of the SATA card that connects the hard drive and optical drive to the motherboard. Figure A connects to Figure B. So be aware of that when lifting the middle piece off the motherboard. You should lift up.

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The 2 pictures above I labeled where the 4 screws are located to remove the hard drive. It’s fairly easy to remove from the SATA connection after the screws have been removed but putting the new hard drive can be more of a challenge. There’s a gap between the hard drive and DVDRW drive so you can’t rest the hard drive on the optical drive while connecting it to the SATA port.

If you’ve ever opened up a Macbook Pro or other laptops, you will notice the ram is place in a similar fashion. There are 2 clips on the side. Once you unclip the ram, it will pop up. The ram chips are stacked on top of each other, with their own clips.

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Above is another view of the motherboard.

That should cover how to replace the hard drive and ram for the Mac Mini. Before putting the case back, I would suggest turning it on and ensuring your new components are recognize. Just be careful when you have it running to not touch any of the components as you may damage it. Apple may have nice designs but the price of it is the difficulty of upgrading.

Synology DS212J NAS Enclosure

I read many good reviews on this Synology DS212J NAS enclosure over the internet and got interested. Before buying this, I’ve been using the Terastation TS-XE4.0TL/R5 for almost 2 years and it has been great. It has 4x 1TB drives. I have them set up in a RAID5 so I get a little over 2TB storage. It’s getting full and I wanted a cheaper and quick solution to expand it. Hard drives at this time are very expensive. I have 2x 2TB Hitachi Deskstar 5k3000 hard drives lying around that I got for $60 each a few months ago. I’m glad I bought those when they were cheap.

This NAS enclosure comes with 2 bays, perfect for my spare 2TB drives. I set them up to be in a RAID1. It’s easy to setup and configure, although the interface takes a few to get used to but that’s how it is with anything new. It has 2 USB 2.0 ports where I can plug an additional external hard drive or a printer and it can be shared as well. The NIC port is gigabit and seems to be faster than my Terastation with dual NIC gigabit ports (even with teaming enabled).

The current version of DSM is 4.0 and has many fixes that people complained about with the previous versions. The interface is intuitive and can be accessed using any browser. With this device, I can send my Time Machine backups over the wireless network. The power consumption is also low. I’m getting around 22 kwH watts. If you’re looking for a NAS enclosure and need only 2 bays, I highly recommend checking this one out.

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OCZ Vertex Plus SSD Fixed

I posted problems with my OCZ SSD a few months ago here. I have gotten my drive back and it’s fixed. It didn’t take long for the RMA process, I just took a long time posting about the results. The whole RMA process took about a week. First I submitted a support ticket. I communicated with OCZ for a few days. Then they granted me an RMA number. I did have to pay for the shipping to send the drive back to them but it was only a few $. Here’s what they told me they did…

“We have received the drive from you. It has been extensively tested for data integrity in our equipment. We were unable to find any problems with the drive. It was tested on an Asus P8P67 motherboard using Windows 7 64 bit with an i7 2600. The way we test the drive is by filling up the entire drive with data. The data is then read back to ensure that we get the same thing we wrote to the drive. This process is repeated multiple times with the drive being entirely filled up and read back many times. This testing ensures that the drive is storing data accurately and that the drive can withstand sustained maximum IOPS over a long period of time. During testing a very large amount of data is written to the drive. Any failing or marginal drives are quickly made apparent during this testing process. After this has been done many times the drive is then reflashed to ensure it has the latest firmware, and it is also reset to wipe all of the "dirty" NAND to restore full performance back to the drive. All testing is done prior to updating the firmware. The firmware has since been updated to the current version and the drive has been reset. The drive will be prepared to be shipped back to you. If we have not heard from you within a week from today the drive will be shipped back to you.”

I asked…

“did you use it as a storage drive or did you install windows on it? i’m able to use it as a storage drive but not install any OS on it.”.

Their response…

“The way a storage device, such as an SSD works is that at the simplest level it just stores data, and then reads the data back when accessed. It doesn’t matter if it is being used as a boot drive or as a storage device, its still doing the same fundamental process. In the case of a boot drive that errors out the operating system will crash. If it is being tested as a secondary drive and it errors out, the process will fail though the entire computer will not crash. Some of the drives we test do indeed fail this testing and they are marked as bad. Your drive didn’t encounter any issues during the testing. Nearly 1tb of data was written to and then read from the drive as part of the testing.”

So it looks like it was just  a “dirty” drive. I know I’ve formatted it plenty of times but I guess not good enough? But it never worked even when I first got it and tried it. Anyways, it’s fixed now and I’m happy.

The process was painless with them. I now have it running on my HTPC with an MSI E350 motherboard. It works great and fast for its capabilities. Fortunately, this SSD drive was not meant for my more important machines so I had time to spare with troubleshooting and RMA. I wouldn’t buy an OCZ drive if it was going on an important machine. So far I’ve had good luck and experience with Kingston and Samsung SSD drives. If I come across another good deal on an OCZ SSD drive I wouldn’t hesitate to get it. I just won’t use it on my main machines.

Here’s a pic I took when I opened up their package. It was neatly packed and they even gave me a 3.5” adapter. Thanks OCZ.

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Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus

I have been building another computer for a few months now that will be my transcoding machine. Here’s the latest addition. Newegg had this fan on sale and it has many great reviews. I was curious and figured it wouldn’t hurt to try it. Besides, I’m only running the stock heatsink (i5-2500K) and it does its job. I’m sure it’ll be better than what I have now. The installation was straight forward. My tower has access to the motherboard from the bottom side (motherboard) so it made installing the bracket easy. It comes with a 120mm fan. The heatsink can use another but you have to buy it. So I bought another. Once the heatsink is in place, it does move a little. I’m not sure if I installed it right but it seems secure enough. Here are some pics of the heatsink and one fan.

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I used this spray to remove the thermal grease from the old heatsink and the top of the CPU. It works well, just be safe with it because it is toxic.

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This is the old stock heatsink that comes with the Intel i5-2500K. Again, it does its job well but I was curious to try a different one. I measured the height just to give you an idea of the difference between the new and old heatsink and hope to show an estimate of how much clearance you’ll need in your tower.

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Here are some pics to show you the physical difference between the two heatsink.

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Make sure you have plenty of room in your tower. I have an Antec Three Hundred tower. It fits just right. I’m also using a Gigabyte GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3 motherboard. This is a micro ATX motherboard so it’s fairly small. The placement of the ram is very close the the Hyper 212 heatsink. There’s room, but not much.

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The temps using the stock i5-2500K heatsink fan.

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The temps using the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus.

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Temps with some load on the CPU. I get about 44* C on 96% CPU load with the Hyper 212 heatsink and two 120mm fans. The CPU is stock and not overclocked. Not too bad I think. It’s not as cooled as water coolers but I’m going simple for now and trying to get a better video card for this system that way I can use more CUDA cores than the 8400GS I’m using right now.

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